The Caine Mutiny has been one of my favourite books since I was a teenager. I don’t know whether it is much read today; a 1951 novel about World War II probably doesn’t seem as relevant now as it did when I was growing up in (what I now recognize as) the post-WWII years. Fans of Hollywood's golden age will remember Humphrey Bogart's iconic performance as the paranoid Captain Queeg in the 1954 movie.


Humphrey Bogart as Captain Queeg
Humphrey Bogart as Captain Queeg


At any rate, The Caine Mutiny occupies an outsize piece of real estate in my brain. It is, among other things, a coming-of-age story about the growth of Willis Seward “Willie” Keith from a spoiled mama’s boy to the captain of the Caine. When not aboard the Caine, a good deal of the story concerns Willie’s romance with May Wynn (née Marie Menotti), a night-club singer from an impoverished Italian immigrant family. At the end of the book, Willie, who had previously broken up with May on the grounds that the class difference between them is unbridgeable, has returned from the war determined to make her his wife. Will he succeed? We’ll never know. Or will we?

Often, when I read a work of fiction, I speculate about what will happen to the characters after the end of the book. (Will Scarlett O’Hara and Rhett Butler get back together? I don’t know and I don’t care, but I’m convinced that Ashley Wilkes will move to England.) I started thinking about whether Willie and May would get married, and ended up imagining a whole future for their family, almost up to the present.

So here it is… the further adventures of the Keith family.

Willie and May get married. Willie, who majored in comparative literature at Princeton (this is canon), is able to live out his dream of becoming a college professor – he belongs to the last generation that will be able to do that. He gets a tenured position at a school in the Midwest; I picture some place like Ames, Iowa. May – or rather, Marie, because she gives up her stage name when she gives up her night-club act – is happy to leave behind the struggle to make a living and become a postwar housewife in a little detached house with a yard. It’s more luxury than she ever imagined she would have. With her beautiful singing voice and her stage experience, she is a great acquisition for the local community theatre.

Marie’s parents sell the fruit store in the Bronx and, with Willie’s help, move to a little house in the same town as Willie and Marie. They spend their later years growing vegetables in their back yard and providing emotional support to their grandchildren. Willie and Marie ask Willie’s mother to move closer to them also, but are relieved when she chooses to stay in New York.

Willie and Marie have two children. Following the Italian custom, they name their son after his paternal grandfather and their daughter after her maternal grandmother. Their son is named Willis Wynn Keith – Willis for his father and grandfather, Wynn for his mother’s stage name – and is called Bill. Their daughter is named Serafina, but is called Sara. Bill is a high achiever – in school, in piano (he inherited the family musical talent), in Boy Scouts – who likes getting recognition for his achievements. Sara struggles in school. She likes hands-on work, such as helping her grandparents in their vegetable garden. Both children feel that their father is disappointed in them.

Bill turns 18 in 1968, just in time for the Vietnam war. By that time Willie is a left-leaning academic who opposes the war. Yet he is proud of his own service in World War II. Bill resents this. Against his parents’ wishes, he joins the Navy. This is not the worst place to be during the Vietnam war, but it is bad enough to leave him confused and traumatized. He flounders for a while after coming home, but eventually establishes a career as a music therapist. He marries a widow whose husband was killed in Vietnam. For whatever reason, Bill and his wife don’t have any children. Her son from her first marriage is Willie and Marie’s only grandchild.

Sara also has her problems as a young adult. She wants to learn a trade, but that is pretty difficult for a woman in the 1970s. She is also a lesbian, a fact that she keeps hidden from her father. Despite his somewhat liberal politics, he has rather archaic ideas about sex and gender (this too is canon). Eventually, with the help of her grandfather, Sara becomes the apprentice of an old Italian cabinetmaker. She lives in Colorado with her partner, and keeps her distance from her parents, though she is close to her brother.

Willie dies in 1979, at age 59, of lung cancer. He always smoked too much (canon). Marie lives long enough to vote for Obama in 2008.

As of 2026, Bill and Sara are both in their 70s, and retired. Sara and her partner are into adventure travel, though they realize that they are getting a little old for that. Bill plays in a band with some other old guys. His stepson lives a conventional life in the suburbs with his wife, a nurse. Their children are young adults. But I won’t follow them into the next generation. Enough is enough.
Like almost everyone I know, I begin each day by doing the word games on the New York Times Games app. I start with Spelling Bee and go on to Wordle and Connections. At some time during the day I usually do the crossword puzzles too. There is one New York Times game, however, that you won’t find on the app. That is the cryptic crossword puzzle called “Puns and Anagrams.” It appears only once every eight weeks, and then only in print, in the New York Times Magazine, as it has been doing every eight weeks since 1951.

The New York Times Magazine was a fixture during my childhood. It was always kept in the bathroom, conveniently located for reading while on the toilet or in the bathtub. It was often open to the puzzle page, since my mother liked to do the crossword puzzle while taking a bath. So I had the opportunity to stare uncomprehendingly at a lot of “Puns and Anagrams” puzzles. My mother wasn’t fond of these puzzles, so I only saw the clues, never the answers.

Of the hundreds, or maybe thousands, of cryptic clues that crossed my path, there is one that has stayed in my mind all these years. The clue is OUTDID EL CID IN SLEEP. I have no idea why this seemingly meaningless string of words made such an impression. Maybe I saw it when I was in an impressionable state, having just seen the movie “El Cid” with Charlton Heston.

I avoided cryptic crosswords for most of my puzzle-doing life. Some years ago I bought a book that explained the different kinds of clues, but I only succeeded in doing a few puzzles. For the past two years, though, I have been honing my cryptic-clue skills. This is courtesy of a web site called Minute Cryptic. Instead of intimidating you with a whole puzzle, it presents just one cryptic clue a day. If you need help solving it, you can ask for hints. If, after seeing the answer, you still don’t understand it, you can get a nice Australian man to explain it. I usually need a hint or two, but sometimes I solve them all by myself. So satisfying.

Now that I have a better idea how these clues work, I have tried, from time to time, to solve the “El Cid” clue. And I am happy to say that, a mere sixty years or so after it appeared in print, I have solved it!

I’m going to reveal my solution below. But in case you would like to take a stab at it yourself, here is a nice large picture of El Cid that you can look at before scrolling down.



Charlton Heston as El Cid


Without further ado…

OUTDID EL CID IN SLEEP = ECLIPSED

One thing I have learned about cryptic clues is that they always include a definition of the answer, either at the beginning or the end of the clue. The rest of the clue contains the puns and anagrams. In this case, ECLIPSED is an anagram of the words CID and SLEEP. And ECLIPSED is another word for OUTDID. Voila!

Nine Plays

Aug. 30th, 2026 09:13 pm
I am not usually much of a theatre-goer, but it somehow happened that I saw nine plays during the month of August.

At the beginning of the month was a family trip to the Stratford Festival. Our party, which consisted of two children, two parents, and two grandmothers, saw four plays in two days. Though for the kids, the visit to the cat café was probably the highlight of the trip.

A little over a week later, I went on my second annual Road Scholar trip with my sister, which this year was to the Shaw Festival in Niagara-on-the-Lake. In keeping with Road Scholar’s mission of educational trips for seniors, there were lots of educational extras: a backstage tour, pre- and post-performance talks by members of the company, and even singing and dancing workshops. I was dreading the singing and dancing, but it actually turned out to be pretty satisfying, because the instructors were patient and encouraging, and had such low expectations that whatever we did was great.

This summer I have been volunteering at High Park, pulling out invasive plants and planting native grasses. The park also has Shakespeare in the Park every summer. I had never gone to it, but after hearing glowing reviews from my fellow weed-pullers, I bought a ticket.

Then yesterday, I went back to Stratford – this time by myself – see “The King James Bible Play,” which seemed to be calling my name (it’s about translation!) but which, for obvious reasons, was not included in the family trip.

When I tell people that I just saw nine plays, they usually ask some variation of, “So, which did you like best?” So here are my mini-reviews of the plays I saw. In “top ten list” style, starting with the one I enjoyed least and working my way up to the one I enjoyed most. But first, a couple of cautions: (1) I wouldn’t presume to say one play was “better” than another, even if I knew what that meant. This is a purely subjective rating based on how good a time I had at each performance. (2) In this kind of list something has to be toward the bottom. So I want to make it clear that, with one exception, I enjoyed all of them. And while some plays were more or less to my taste, I thought the actors – again, with one exception – did a fantastic job.

So, without further excuses…

#9. “The Hobbit” (Stratford). This was Stratford’s annual children’s play, but no one in our party liked it, including the children. The Stratford company didn’t seem to have put any effort at all into it. We all agreed that if my granddaughter’s middle school had put this on, we would have thought it was pretty good. But a middle school wouldn’t have charged $150 a ticket. Among many disappointments with costumes, scenery, writing, and acting, one stands out: an important plot point is that when Bilbo Baggins puts on the ring, he becomes invisible. I think even a school production would have made some attempt to indicate invisibility, like illuminating the actor with a spotlight when he was visible, and turning it off when he was invisible. This production didn’t even bother to do that. If you didn’t already know the story, you would not have known that he was supposed to be invisible. Also, why were the 13 dwarves played by five actors? Most of them didn’t even have any lines. Could they not have found a few members of the company to swell the ranks?

#8. “One for the Pot” (Shaw). This is an old-fashioned farce (written in the 1960s in imitation of older models), with lots of exits and entrances and cases of mistaken identity. The main actor, who played four identical brothers, was superb. My main problem with this production is that the entire thing was played at one uniform, manic level of intensity. A joke needs a quieter buildup so that the punch line can really punch. Also, this kind of play is so heavily invested in plot at the expense of character, that I really didn’t care what happened to any of these people. There was a woman in our Road Scholar group who kept saying, “I just don’t care for that genre.” I guess that really is my opinion too, though I wouldn’t have expressed it exactly that way.

#7. “Something Rotten” (Stratford). I really don’t care for this genre either – a story set in the past but employing deliberate anachronisms for comic effect. (I think of the TV series, “The Great,” ostensibly set in court of Catherine the Great.) This was a musical about a pair of playwrights from Shakespeare’s day who are, anachronistically, writing a musical. The opening number was called “Welcome to the Renaissance.” You get the idea. Not my cup of tea. Though, you have to admire the chutzpah of people who would put on a play called “Something Rotten.”

#6. “Funny Girl” (Shaw). I have no complaints about this production, except possibly that the actor playing Nick Arnstein was a bit lacking in charisma. It was perfectly fine. But… I was struck by how dated the material seemed, specifically in its treatment of gender roles. Of course, I know that it reflects the attitudes of the 1960s, when it was written, and the 1910s, when it was set. And there are many plays and novels that I like even though they include material that is much more problematic than anything in “Funny Girl.” I don’t know. Maybe “Funny Girl” isn’t great enough to transcend its limitations. Or maybe the problem is that – unlike, say, Shakespeare – “Funny Girl” can’t be modified to really grapple with these issues, because of the constraints imposed by the holders of the rights. For whatever reason, it made me a bit uncomfortable. On the other hand, one pleasure, for our Road Scholar group, was that the singing and dancing workshops used material from this show, and it was really exciting to see them in the actual performance. This gave me some insight into how much the enjoyment of a performance can be enhanced by careful preparation.

#5. “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” (Stratford). A solid, traditional production, which is the way I like my Shakespeare. I have seen this play several times, and this was the first time that I thought they got the fairies right – making them magical, beautiful, and sinister in what I consider the correct proportions. However, there was something – I don’t know what – about the mechanicals’ performance of “Pyramus and Thisbe” that just didn’t work. Usually this is the one part of the play that everyone gets right. I once saw it performed by young teens at a day camp, and it was hilarious. I don’t know what was wrong with it in this production – it just seemed to fall flat.

#4. “The King James Bible Play” (Stratford). This is a new Canadian play with an intriguing premise. In the first act, which takes place in 1609, a group of scholars are working on the translation of the King James Bible. Of course, there is a lot about the personal lives of the translators and their relationships with each other, and not too much about the work of translation – which is only to be expected. We do get to see them working on chapter 1 of Luke. (You see them deciding, for example, that “The babe leaped in her womb” is better than “the babe sprang.”) In the second act, a group of present-day women are working on a play about the translation of the King James Bible. We find out a lot about their personal lives and relationships, which uncannily mirror those of the men in the first act. Eventually (or maybe not so eventually, but I’m slow on the uptake) you realize that what we have just watched is their play, and the parallels are there because they have written them into the play. I cried a lot at this play, partly because it reminded me of how much I miss my own translation team. But also, I think, because the material is somewhat emotionally manipulative – for example, employing sure-fire tear-jerkers like the death of children, when the plot didn’t seem to really call for it. And – why is there so much in it about pineapple?

#3. “The Importance of Being Earnest” (Stratford). A good, solid, traditional production of one of the great comic plays in the English language. It is extremely funny – and a little bit serious, as all comedies should be – and the jokes worked even though I knew exactly what was coming. Not much to say about it except that I had a good time. I’m sorry I didn’t get more of a chance to find out what my eight-year-old granddaughter made of it.

#2. “Jeeves and Wooster” (Shaw). This play uses some of the same stories that are in the TV series with Stephen Fry and Hugh Laurie, which is a hard act to follow. They did it brilliantly by making it extremely theatrical. There were only three actors. One played Bertie Wooster, telling his story directly to the audience (allowing some of the P. G. Wodehouse voice to come through). The other two actors played all of the other parts; sometimes, one actor played two people at the same time. The changes of costume and scenery were done in full view of the audience and were actually part of the action of the play. This worked because it is funny and because, given the structure of the play, it made sense for them to be an extra degree removed from reality, relative to the narrator Bertie. Very creative adaptation of the source material. And, the three actors came and talked to the Road Scholars immediately after the performance!

#1. “Twelfth Night” (Shakespeare in the Park by Canadian Stage). This is a play I particularly like, although it does require believing that a brother and sister look so much alike that no one can tell them apart. I have seen it several times, both on stage and in movies, and have never seen a performance that I didn’t like. (I once saw it performed by amateur actors in the courtyard of a shopping mall, and even then it was good. At least there they had real water for the shipwreck – they waded into the fountain.) I put this in the #1 spot because… it was magical. I was completely absorbed, so that I forgot that I was sitting on the ground in a manner unsuited to my age. Before the play started, I was thinking, “I’m too old to be doing this,” but I am so glad I did.

I wonder if the play would have seemed so magical if it had been done indoors, in a regular theatre. Probably not. What about the other eight plays I saw this month - would any of them have been magical if they had been performed outdoors? The only one that I can picture is such a setting is "A Midsummer Night's Dream." (Well, maybe "the Hobbit," if it had been a better play.) I think "Shakespeare in the Park" is a thing because these plays are particularly suited to being performed in the open air. After all, they were written for a theatre that was open to the sky and exposed to the elements. Shakespeare wrote for an audience who knew that they would probably be uncomfortable (a lot of them didn't have seats) and possibly exposed to rain, or worse. The refrain of the final song in "Twelfth Night" is "hey ho, the wind and the rain." I can picture that being sung with great gusto on a windy, rainy day. So that may have been part of the magic - that I was seeing the play more or less as it was intended to be seen.

But in the end, it can't really be analyzed. In live theatre there is an incalculable element, that happens when it happens. Magic.
I have written before about the colony of House Sparrows that nest in the ventilators of the building that I can see from my window. Now that the warm weather has come, and I have opened the door to the balcony, I wake up each morning to a LOUD chorus of chirping sparrows. It made me think of some Leonard Cohen lyrics, which I have adapted into a kind of affirmation for the start of the day.

The birds they sing at the break of day
Start again, I hear them say
Don't dwell on what has passed away
Or what is yet to be…

(And if that reminds me that “there’s a crack in everything, that’s how the light gets in,” so much the better.)

This spring I splurged on a new lens for my camera, and now for the first time I can really photograph birds. The camera allows me to see details that would otherwise be invisible to me. When I see sparrows on the ground, I just see some small brown birds. But with the camera, I can see them as individuals: male and female, adult and juvenile. A whole world of sparrows, waiting to be discovered.









I have photographed other birds, too: pigeons and robins, red-wing blackbirds and starlings. But my neighbours, the sparrows, hold a special place in my heart.
For the past two weeks I have been working on a day-by-day account of my Camino, with some reflections on what the whole experience meant to me. Making it was part of the decompression that I had to do in order to transition from Camino life into ordinary life. It ended up being a 46-page booklet (the print is pretty big, though) illustrated with about 60 photographs.



If anyone is interested in reading the full account, let me know - I can send it to you as a PDF.
I am home in Toronto, catching up on the backlog of mail, email, laundry, and sleep. Among the other loose ends, I need to post about the last few days of the trip. In my most recent update, I was 5 days away from arriving in Santiago. So here is the final installment.

I arrived at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela – the central point at which all of the pilgrimage routes converge – on Wednesday, May 13, a little after noon. I had pictured arriving as part of a crowd of pilgrims, converging from all points of the compass – but in fact my arrival was very quiet, almost anticlimactic. The streets were mostly filled with local people going about their ordinary business, and I had to use Google Maps to guide me to the cathedral.


Arrived in Santiago!


A couple of hours later, though, as I was having lunch in an outdoor café, I did see the expected crowds of pilgrims. Most people do the final 25 km in one day and arrive late in the afternoon. I broke it up into two days, so I arrived too early.

I went to the Pilgrims’ Office and collected my Compostela – the document that says you have completed an official pilgrimage. It’s written in Latin, including a Latin version of the pilgrim’s name. Apparently my name in Latin (in the accusative case) is Lindam.

That was the end of the walk, but there was still one more outing before heading home. The next day I took a bus tour to Finisterre (Latin for “end of the earth”), so called because the ancient Romans apparently believed, erroneously, that it is the westernmost point in Europe. I wanted to go in part because Finisterre is mentioned in a Horatio Hornblower novel, but it turns out that is a different Finisterre, in Brittany. I would have known this if I had been better at geography.

On this final day of the trip, I had an important task to perform. There is a tradition, when setting out on a pilgrimage, of bringing a rock or other small item from home, which you leave behind to symbolize laying down your burdens and getting a fresh start. At one of the stops on the road to Finisterre, I dropped my rock into the ocean at the foot of Mount Pindo, the sacred mountain of the Celts who inhabited Iberia in ancient times.


Mount Pindo


My flight home was from Lisbon, so the next day I took a 7-hour bus trip from Santiago to Lisbon. The bus didn’t leave till afternoon, so I had a chance to go to mass at the cathedral before leaving Santiago.


Attending mass in the cathedral


The pilgrimage was an amazing adventure, and it will take me some time to process all the things I learned and experienced. But after being away for over a month, I’m enjoying the luxury of being home - sleeping in my own bed, eating my own cooking, watching movies from my DVD collection, and rooting for the Blue Jays.


I’m home – with a new row of magnets on my fridge
I now have 5 days of walking ahead of me - 17 days behind me. I have come about 200 km and have less than 75 km left.

There is a noticeable change in the atmosphere once you get within 100 km of Santiago. 100 km is the minimum distance you have to walk to get the "Compostela," the official document certifying the completion of a pilgrimage. So around 100 km out, you start seeing more people on the trail. And not just more people - different people. Earlier on, I met mostly people from North America and Western Europe, walking singly or in pairs. Now there are larger groups from more far-flung places - I met a group from Taiwan, an several groups from Russia.

There are some people in the online forums who resent these new walkers - "tourists," they say disdainfully. But if the Pilgrim Office in Santiago says they are pilgrims, it's not for anyone else to say otherwise. There is no one path that is THE Camino de Santiago. There are many paths, of varying lengths. And there are many ways to walk: hotels vs. hostels, luggage transfer vs. backpacking, pre-booking accommodations vs. winging it. Everyone walks the Camino that makes sense to them, given their physical, financial, and logistical constraints. No one walks the last 100 km because it is "easy." It would be easier not to do it at all.

In the earlier stages of the walk, there were times when I walked alone, and times when I paired up with another pilgrim and walked together for a day. Now, instead of walking as an individual interacting with other individuals, I am part of a large and growing stream, as we pick up people who started later, and as different paths come together. There is a change in the energy level. Like little streams and tributaries flowing into bigger and bigger rivers, we are swept along by the current.
It had to happen sometime - after two and a half weeks of splendid weather, Sunday was the first really rainy day I have walked through. Fortunately I had company. I was walking with two women from my "cohort," that is, a group of people who are all on the same schedule and keep encountering each other at hotels, restaurants, and on the road. As some compensation for getting wet, we were treated to one of the best cafe stops ever. I ordered a hot chocolate and my companions ordered coffee. We were served the drinks plus free slices of orange cake and a big bowl of mixed nuts.



A patch of blue sky on a rainy day


On this rainy day I walked from Baiona to Coruxo, but due to a quirk of the accommodations booking I ended the day back in Baiona. There were no rooms available in Coruxo, so the tour company sent a taxi to take me from Coruxo to the hotel in Baiona, and then to deliver me back to Coruxo to start the next day's walk.

I realized over the course of the day's walk that my raingear was wholly inadequate. My companions had big ponchos that covered themselves and their backpacks, and they seemed to stay reasonably dry. So the first thing I did when I got back to Baiona was to go to a sporting goods store near the hotel and buy myself a poncho.

Today I walked only a short stage, about 10 km. Much of it was on a pleasant path beside a river. It was clearly located in the middle of a seedy-looking part of the city, as I could see if I looked away from the river, or across to the other bank. But the path, the river, and the vegetation on the riverbank were beautiful, and the bird life was abundant. Merlin identified 12 species by sound, and I identified two more by sight. It reminded me of the ravines in Toronto, which feel like wilderness even though they are right in the middle of a major city. There was a little rain but enough to try out my new poncho.


The river walk


Because this was a short stage, I arrived at my destination much to early too check in to the hotel, so I went looking for someplace I could have lunch and while away an hour of so. Just before reaching the hotel, I spotted the department store, "El Corte Ingles," which brought back memories of my trip to Spain in 2008 with Peter and my mother. On that trip, we went to a branch of that store in either Madrid or Barcelona, and my mother insisted on having lunch in the store cafeteria. As I recall, it wasn't a very good lunch, but I decided to eat there today, for sentimental reasons. It turned out to be a very pleasant cafeteria, and the menu seems to have been modernized in the last 18 years. I had a margarita pizza and raised a glass (of Coke) to the memory of my mother. And to my father, because one of the reasons Mom wanted to eat there is because Dad liked department store cafeterias.


The cafeteria at El Corte Ingles
Today marks the midpoint of my Camino journey. In ten days of walking, I have encountered quite a variety of roads, paths, and trails. Some I welcome with delight, while others elicit groans of, "Not again!" So here they are, ranked in order of preference, from best to worst.

1. Well-maintained sand or dirt roads with plenty of shade. These are often found in pine or eucalyptus forests (or plantations) without much of an understory, giving a park-like ambiance. The road is easy on the feet, the trees are easy on the eyes, the bird life is abundant, and the walk is easy enough to afford leisure for appreciating the natural beauty. Most of my bird lists were compiled in settings like this.

2. Boardwalk. Easy to walk on (except where in poor repair), with awe-inspiring views of the Atlantic waves crashing on the rocks. Simple to navigate. The disadvantage is the lack of shade. Ideal on an overcast day.

3. Ordinary city streets. Extra points for pedestrian malls and traffic lights. This doesn't occur too often on the Camino, but when it does it is a welcome reminder of home. Drivers in Portugal and Spain seem much more respectful of pedestrian crosswalks than in North America. I always wait for cars to come to a complete stop before crossing the street, but I notice that the local march confidently into the intersection, secure in the belief that cars will stop for them.

4. Roads with bicycle lanes. Many of the roads in this part of Spain include a bicycle / pedestrian lane, like a broad shoulder but more distinct from the part of the road that cars drive on, and painted yellow to make it clear to drivers that it is a no-go zone. I fondly call it "the yellow brick road" even though it isn't brick. Like boardwalk, it's easy to walk on, hard to get lost, but exposed to the sun and closer to the traffic.

5. Cobblestones. The most common surface in towns and villages, and surprisingly common even in big cities. Some are made of small, uniform-sized pieces of stone, like a mosaic; these are the easiest to walk on and can be quite beautiful. I love the way the crosswalks are marked with alternating bands of granite (white) and basalt (black), so much classier than paint. The ones where the stones are of irregular sizes and shapes can be hard on the feet.

6. Sand and/or loose gravel. On the beach, in the forest, or in small villages. Scenic but hard to walk on.

7. Rocks, stones, and roots. These are hazardous - it would be easy to trip, slip, or lose your balance. These trails require a lot of concentration and careful planning of where to step.

8. In last place - walking on the side of a road with a narrow shoulder or (occasionally) no shoulder. Fortunately this isn't often found on the official Camino, but may be encountered when leaving the path to walk to a cafe or hotel.

About a week into the Camino, people started to notice that the rocks-and-roots trails are often a shortcut between two sections of a road with a bicycle path. I see why the Camino is designed to minimize the amount of road walking, but in general it's easier and more pleasant to "follow the yellow brick road" instead of walking on cobblestone streets or treacherous trails. I have taken this alternative a couple of times when I was walking with someone else who was confident of being able to navigate, away from the Camino's yellow arrows and the tour company's blue line. I'm not sure whether I would dare to try it on my own.



The best kind of road


P.S. In "The Sun Also Rises," Hemingway describes a landscape in Spain that is like my #1. This is from the chapter where Jake and Bill go on an idyllic fishing trip, away from the excessive drinking and sexual tension of the earlier and later parts of the book. "The trees were big, and the foliage was thick but it was not gloomy. There was no undergrowth, only the smooth grass, very green and fresh, and the big gray trees well spaced as though it were a park."
Today is one of my scheduled "rest" days - walk for five days, rest for one - so I am taking this opportunity to catch up on my Camino updates. This installment actually takes place 3 days ago, on April 29, the day I crossed from Portugal into Spain.


That's Spain over there


As i mentioned before, there are several ways to navigate on the Camino - yellow arrows, online maps, following other people, etc. The most reliable is to use the online map provided by the tour company. As long as I keep following the thin blue line, I know I'm on track. On this day, however, I took a chance and went off the blue line - on purpose! Well, sort of on purpose.

The path started off by following the coast, but at some point the blue line directed me to go through a tunnel under the railroad tracks and continue inland. But it looked like most people were staying on the coast road, which was certainly more scenic, so I did too. I thought the two paths would join up again shortly. But when I took a closer look at the map, I saw that they did not. As I hesitated, wondering whether I should go back, I heard someone say to me, "You can go this way." The speaker turned out to be Vicki, a United Church minister from Calgary, walking the Camino on her sabbatical. She had a map supplied by a different company, that showed alternate routes, and she had selected one going through a national forest and then continuing around the coast. All of the paths had to come together in the end, because they all led to the place where you get the boat to cross the river from Spain to Portugal. I decided to travel with Vicki, and I'm glad I did, because the path through the national forest was beautiful and peaceful.


Vicki and me in the national forest


Then we came to the river. The tour company had recommended using a particular boat service to cross the river, but when we got there they were nowhere to be found. Instead we found a woman selling tickets for a service called "Popeye." She claimed (truthfully or not, I don't know) that Popeye was operating as a subcontractor for the official carrier. In any case, it seemed like the only ride in town, so we took it.


Popeye's boat


I was imagining something more like a ferry, but Popeye was running a small motorboat, carrying about 10 or 12 people. So I thought it would be like taking a boat ride at the cottage, but I was wrong again. That thing went FAST. It went bouncing over the waves - that is probably not the correct nautical term, but that's what it felt like - as the passengers slipped and slid on the wooden benches. Vicki found the experience exhilarating, proclaiming, "That was the best 9 euros I ever spent!" I put it in the category of experiences you're glad to have had, once they are safely over.

And so I bid farewell to Portugal. I enjoyed my time there. The people I dealt with were mostly patient and kind. The cuisine was a little trying for someone who doesn't eat seafood, but I managed. The wine was uniformly delicious.



First distance marker in Spain. 164 km to Santiago!
I have reached the end of the first week of the Camino - two more weeks to go. If all goes well, tomorrow I should be crossing from Portugal into Spain. ("If all goes well," because it involves a boat ride, which is subject to tides and weather).

To catch up on the past few days:

Sunday was a hard day. On one of those rocky forest paths, I momentarily lost my concentration, tripped, and fell. I wasn't hurt, but it was unnerving. Then, after a few days of walking on rocks, loose gravel, and sand, I got a couple of blisters. I lost my hat, which I had specially altered to make it fit my tiny little head. And after all that, when I was relaxing in my hotel room, suddenly the door opened and two strangers walked in! So sorry, they said, they mixed up the room number. But how did they get in? It turns out that in that hotel, the doors don't latch if you just let them close - you have to really slam them. You can be sure that after that, I slammed the door AND bolted it!

Monday was a previously scheduled rest day, and much appreciated. I did my laundry and bought a new hat. The store owner was super nice and adjusted the fit for me by pinning it with a gadget they use to put price tags on things. Other than that, I stayed in my hotel room with my feet up, listening to the audiobook of "The Count of Monte Cristo."

And today, it was back on the trail. I was able to walk 13 km despite my blisters, thanks to the magic of hiker's wool. If you're not familiar with hiker's wool, it is sheep's wool from New Zealand, which you wear inside your sock wherever there is a sore spot on your foot. It provides padding, and the lanolin in the wool has lubricating, antibacterial, and other good properties. It's a game-changer!

My path today took me past the site of a wildfire. I could see and smell the smoke. A small plane kept flying over, presumably observing and/or fighting the fire.


that's not mist over the mountain
That's not mist over those hills.


According to the weather app, tomorrow is supposed to be a rainy day, the first I have encountered since coming to Portugal. Maybe not so great for hiking and boating, but I hope it helps put out the fire.



I saw this on a church I passed. It looks like he's saying, "What were you thinking?"
The first couple of hours today were mostly through the streets of towns and villages. In one town I saw a church dedicated to Saint (or Archangel) Michael. St. Michael was important to Michael Servetus, therefore he was important to Peter, therefore he is important to me. Since churches along the route are often open to travellers, I went in and lit a candle for Peter. As in most churches in Portugal, it was a coin-operated battery-powered candle, but it's the thought that counts.




Today I didn't walk with any specific people, nor did I walk alone. Instead, I was part of a shifting cluster of pilgrims, occasionally exchanging a few words but mostly just making their way down the road in the same direction. I liked the feeling of being part of a stream of pilgrims, past, present, and future.

The terrain on the second half of today's stage was quite different from what I have so far encountered on the walk. The tour company's booklet described it as "a narrow path with views of rocky outcrops and glimpses of the river and waterfall below." This was an understatement. It was actually a true forest trail, at least as rough as trails I have hiked in Algonquin Park. In places we had to scramble over rocks in what appeared to be a dry stream bed - I can only imagine what it is like when it is wet and muddy. On one side of the path is a steep drop down to the river, which can be heard rushing below. "Views" and "glimpses" doesn't begin to cover it. It was not what I expected, but I kind of liked it. It shows that the Camino, though heavily travelled and somewhat commercialized, has not been entirely tamed.


Pilgrims entering the forest


Tonight I am staying in one of the strangest accommodations I have ever encountered. The property is surrounded by a stone wall with massive wooden doors, looking like something out the "Adventures of Robin Hood," and tightly locked. I couldn't find any doorbell or intercom, and when I called the hotel's number, there was no answer. Finally a local man came walking down the street and I asked him if he knew how to get in. He touched something that I thought was a security camera and the great doors swung open. I found myself in a compound consisting of several buildings, through whose windows I could see what looked like a private home - a kitchen with an infant's high chair, a room that looked like an architect's studio, etc. I wandered around, trying doors and finding them locked, until I saw a woman tending the garden. She couldn't speak English, but I was able to communicate with her in French. She showed me an unlocked door and took me into what looked like someone's living room. There was no one there, but the gardener used her cell phone to call the owner, who eventually showed up. I was led into a room that looked like someone's home office, where I managed to check in. Then the owner led me to a chamber (that seems like the right word for it) filled with ornate old furniture. Whereas all of the other hotels had modern contactless key cards, this one had an old-fashioned skeleton key. The owner assured me that I didn't need to lock the door because "this is a very safe house." I did at least get a remote control to open the front doors, or gates, or whatever they are. I'll be going out later to get dinner at a nearby Brazilian restaurant. I'm so confused about where this room is, or even what building it's in, that I'm not sure I can find my way out, let alone back in. I feel like I have accepted a dare to spend the night in a haunted castle. But I'm not afraid of ghosts. After all, it is a very safe house.
I'm writing today from a beautiful hotel in Esposende, Portugal. It has a restaurant, a pool, and a lovely arcade/courtyard. My room has a balcony and - important - an abundance of electrical outlets. At the last hotel, I had to unplug the bedside lamp in order to charge my phone.

I have walked about 45 km (28 mi) in the past three days. So far so good! The weather has been perfect - cool and sunny, or warm and breezy.

For the first two days a lot of the the path was on boardwalks along the coast. I love to watch the ocean.




Today the path turned inland, through a woodland with a great variety of bird life. Merlin identified 16 species, including some I've never heard of, like Common Firecrest (not common in my world) and the oddly named Zitting Cisticola.




Along the way, people have set up these little impromptu shrines where people leave stones, messages, prayer cards, etc.




Organized religion is represented by an abundance of churches, with beautiful painted tiles and mosaics and (to my Protestant mind) an excessive amount of gold leaf. There are lots of statues of St. Anthony (the one who helps to locate lost items). The world knows him as St. Anthony of Padua, but here they want you to know that he is actually from Lisbon.




Before I started the walk I worried a lot about getting lost. I have taken a couple of minor wrong turns but actually there is an abundance of wayfinding aids. The path is marked with yellow arrows (on trees, posts, buildings, pavement etc.). I have a map on my phone showing the route. The company that set up the accommodations provided written directions. And there are usually other people with backpacks in sight, to confirm that I am on the right path. So far so good!


Wayfinding arrow in a wattle bush

On My Way

Apr. 22nd, 2026 01:01 pm
My tour of Portugal ended yesterday, and now I am launched on the Camino de Santiago. I am at my first hotel, in Vila do Conde, Portugal. Today's walk was fairly short - about 6 miles - and the navigation was pretty easy, because most of it was on a boardwalk along the seashore. Tomorrow's installment looks like it will be more challenging on both fronts.

For the first couple of miles I didn't meet any other pilgrims, but then I met a Hungarian man and walked the rest of the way with him. We told each other our life stories, but never exchanged names. I guess this is the kind of thing that happens on the Camino.

The tourist attraction in Vila do Conde is the Bobbin Lace Museum. (Not really much of an attraction - I was the only visitor. But as someone who is interested in all kinds of fabric arts and crafts, I found it to be worth a visit.) It is the home of the world's largest piece of bobbin lace - it's in the Guinness book of world records. Upstairs is the Bobbin Lace school, where about 20 women of all ages were learning lacemaking. I watched them for a while but couldn't figure out how this craft works. However, I am glad they are keeping the tradition alive.

More later...
It's not exactly the swallows returning to Capistrano. (Which, I just found out, they don't do anymore, since their nests were destroyed during a renovation project in the 1990s. But I digress.) I am pleased to report that the house sparrows have returned to the ventilators in the building outside my window. They are flying in and out, chirping away, presumably nesting. Welcome back, sparrows! I missed you during the winter!


No Tyrants

Mar. 29th, 2026 04:17 pm
Yesterday I attended a “No Tyrants” rally here in Toronto. Organized by Democrats Abroad, it was an offshoot of the “No Kings” rallies that were taking place all over the United States. Here in Canada, we can’t say “no kings” because we do actually have a king. And in fact, the real problem is tyranny, not monarchy. I have no problem with a constitutional monarch who doesn't interfere with the functioning of democracy.

Like its parent rallies in the US, this one brought together people concerned about different issues – the war in Iran, the treatment of immigrants, the threats against various countries including Canada, the attempt to limit voting rights – united by opposition to the idea of personal rule by an autocratic president.

We gathered at the courthouse across the street from the US consulate. There were a few short speeches. The high point, for me, was when the pastor of the Metropolitan Community Church led the singing of “America the Beautiful” with new words written by herself. A sample:

O beautiful for all who fight
When hatred shouts its lies,
For queers and migrants,
Black and brown,
With fire in their eyes.
America! America!
We break the spell of lies—
No gilded throne, no heart of stone
Can dim our freedom’s rise.

After the rally we had a very short march – really just around the block. I think the people at the front of the line were doing some chanting, but it didn’t filter back to where I was. A few people in cars honked their horns in support. One person shouted obscenities at us. Although it was late March, it was really too cold to be standing around outside, or shuffling slowly down the street. I wished I had brought my warm mittens.

The “No Tyrants” rally was one of four demonstrations that I saw in downtown Toronto this weekend. Besides this one by the Americans, there were gatherings of Cubans and Iranians, as well as a local protest against the policies of the provincial government. In this city of immigrants and exiles, our little demonstration was just one among many.
A few months ago I read a review of an art exhibition called “Winter Count: Embracing the Cold.” The idea was to bring together a variety of artworks from different times, places, and cultures that are not usually seen together, but that are all united in that they deal, in one way or another, with the experience of winter, and the rhythms of life in a cold climate. I thought it sounded interesting, and I was disappointed to read that it was not in Toronto, but at the National Gallery in Ottawa. Then I thought, I could go to Ottawa – why not?

So a few days ago I took a one-day trip to Ottawa – that is, one day in Ottawa, plus two travel days. I used part of my vast accumulation of “points” to get two free nights in a hotel. Since I was going to be in Ottawa, I threw in a tour of Parliament. I thought of going to other museums while I was there but decided not to make it too complicated. Appropriately, for a trip with the theme of “Embracing the Cold,” it snowed almost the entire time I was there.

on the way home from Ottawa
The view from the bus

I’m happy to say that the exhibition lived up to my expectations and was worth the trip (if indeed any art exhibit can be said to be worth two 6-hour bus rides). A few of the works, such as Lawren Harris icebergs, were familiar, but most were new to me, and all benefitted from the context provided by the others. The artists really did seem to be embracing the cold – finding joy and beauty in it – and not just enduring it. That is what I have tried to do this year, which gave me a feeling of connection with the artists and their works.

Me and Tom Thomson
Two views of winter in Algonquin Park - me and Tom Thomson


While I was at the museum I went to another installation, a recording of the 40-voice motet “Spem in Alium” by Thomas Tallis, recorded with each of the 40 voices coming out of its own speaker, so you could walk around the room and hear each voice separately. If Peter had been there, this would have made the trip worthwhile for him.
Today was the kind of spring day you dream about: sunny and warm (16C / 61F). I saw the first sprouts of spring flowers and heard my first Red-winged Blackbird of the season.


First sprouts of spring

It was nice to go outside without the rigamarole of boots, hat, scarf, and gloves. (Predictably, students were out in shorts and T-shirts.)

This doesn't mean that winter is over. It is way too early for that. The forecast for the next few days is two days of heavy rain followed by three days of snow. Folk wisdom says that winter isn't over until it has snowed in April. Still, a foretaste of spring, even a brief one, is much appreciated.
Peter was a collector. He collected CDs, books, hockey cards, toy soldiers, model airplanes, musical instruments ... you name it. I have given away most of these things to people who are either interested in them for their own sake, or wanted them as a memento of Peter.

One thing I hadn’t been able to place was Peter’s collection of Canadian stamps. This was a collection of Peter’s youth: he started it as a teenager, stopped working on it when he went to MIT, then resumed it for a few years in young adulthood. He kept it up until 1976 – not so coincidentally, the year he became a father.


A page from Peter's stamp album


For years afterward, at least into the 1990s, he saved interesting stamps that happened to come his way.




For the past several months I have been volunteering at the Post Office Museum, a small local history museum with an emphasis on postal history, located in the building that once housed Toronto’s first post office. Using the paleography skills that I developed when working on documents from early New England, I am transcribing a backlog of some 30 years’ worth of items that have been donated to the museum. About 90 percent of them are letters, mostly about buying and selling land. There are some miscellaneous items, such as bank certificates, or engraved portraits of kings George IV and William IV. One recent lot consisted of nothing but a single postage stamp: a Canada Postage stamp (with picture of a beaver) from the reign of Queen Victoria. The value was three pence, so it was from before 1857, when Canada switched from pounds, shillings, and pence to Canadian dollars.

This gave me an idea. Peter’s collection included stamps from the reign of Victoria. Might the post office museum be interested in his collection? I asked the museum coordinator, who told me to bring it in so she could look at it.


Victorian stamps from Peter's collection


It turns out that the museum only collects artifacts from before 1860, which means that only three or four of Peter’s stamps were eligible to go into the museum’s permanent collection. She took the whole collection, though. She said it could be used in educational programs, to give kids a quick tour through the history of Canadian stamps, and to introduce the idea of stamp collecting as a hobby that even a child can do. For this purpose, the amateurish nature of the collection (the stamps pasted onto lined looseleaf notebook paper) is part of its charm. A few of Peter’s unmounted stamps went into the starter packs of miscellaneous old stamps that the museum sells, in case anyone is inspired to start their own collection.

So Peter’s humble little stamp collection has found a home at last, in a humble role in a humble little museum. It seems like a fitting place for it.


Toronto's first post office, 1839
A friend of mine once said that the song “They Can’t Take That Away from Me” (in Shall We Dance, 1937) was the one moment of genuine emotion in the entire Fred Astaire & Ginger Rogers oeuvre. She may be right. It all depends on how you define “genuine.”

For 102 minutes of its 110-minute running time, Follow the Fleet (1936) is a pretty typical Fred & Ginger musical. It’s an amiable but lightweight semi-comedy about the romantic tribulations of two sailors in the peacetime Navy (Fred Astaire and Randoph Scott) and their girlfriends (Ginger Rogers and Harriet Hilliard). But right at the end of the movie is a remarkable 8-minute sequence – in the movie, but not of it. It’s supposedly an act performed by the characters played by Fred and Ginger. From what we’ve seen of them in the rest of the movie, it seems somewhat implausible that they would or could perform something of this beauty and complexity. But no matter. Fortunately, we can watch it without having to sit through the rest of the movie. (I wasn't successful in linking it here, but an internet search for "face the music and dance" fred astaire will turn up several versions. Be sure to choose the full 8-minute version.)

The plot of the story-within-the story is so much more serious than the rest of the movie that it actually seems to be in bad taste. In a pantomime prelude, Fred Astaire plays a gambler who loses all his money at the roulette table. Shunned by the well-dressed men and women who doubtless fawned over him when they thought he was rich, he goes up to the roof of a building. As an instrumental version of Irving Berlin’s song “Let’s Face the Music and Dance” plays in the background, he smokes a cigarette, paces around, and – being Fred Astaire – throws in a few dance steps. At the end of the song he pulls out a tiny gun and considers ending it all. But at that moment an elegantly dressed Ginger Rogers enters and starts to climb onto the parapet, presumably to hurl herself down. Fred saves her and, in so doing, saves himself. He throws the gun away into the night. (The sketchy background shows the lights of what appears to be a bridge, so let’s hope the gun landed harmlessly in the water.) As Ginger leans disconsolately against a pillar, Fred shows her his empty wallet, and then tosses it, as well, over the side. He sings:

There may be trouble ahead
But while there’s moonlight and music and love and romance,
Let’s face the music and dance.

Then it gets darker.

Before the fiddlers have fled
Before they ask us to pay the bill
And while we still have the chance
Let's face the music and dance.
Soon, we'll be without the moon
Humming a different tune - and then...

And dance they do, simply and sweetly at first, and then with increasing exuberance. By the time they sashay off together at the end of the song, we are confident that they have chosen life, and that it’s the right choice.

Although Peter had never danced in his life (he was just learning to walk when he got polio in 1953), he adopted this as his theme song. He wrote a sermon based on it, which became one of his "road show" sermons. In the Woonsocket church, where there weren’t any children but the adults loved “Time for All Ages,” he played a recording of the song while – for what seemed like an eternity – I performed a dance routine using Barbie and Ken dolls dressed up as Ginger and Fred. After he died, when I put together a memorial collection of his sermons and essays, it seemed natural to call it “Facing the Music.”

I belong to an online photography community, 52Frames, which issues a weekly photography challenge. One week the challenge was to produce a photograph illustrating a song or other piece of music. I chose “Let’s Face the Music and Dance,” and used the Barbie and Ken dolls – which I still have, still dressed as Fred and Ginger – to re-create a scene from Follow the Fleet. As I discovered back in Woonsocket, it’s not easy to create a dance routine using models whose arms and legs don’t bend. But I did my best.



The sets in the Fred & Ginger musicals are so sketchy
that my background – a composite of four stock images –
is considerably more realistic than the original.


There are a lot of songs about moonlight and music and love and romance. There are a lot of songs about heartbreak, too, but they generally treat it as something that could have been avoided, with better luck or better life choices. Few popular songs are so blunt about the fleeting nature of all earthly joys – the fact that inevitably, sooner or later, the fiddlers will have to be paid. There is something bracing about this uncompromising honesty. “Let’s Face the Music and Dance,” as performed by Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, is a tragedy in the Aristotelian sense, “with incidents arousing pity and fear, in order to accomplish a catharsis of these emotions.”

And so, as Irving Berlin observed:

There may be teardrops to shed
So while there's moonlight and music and love and romance
Let's face the music and dance… dance…
Let's face the music and dance!

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mamaredcloud

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